Into The Hinterlands

[BD]

I suppose it's unnecessary to mention that we got on the road at 9 am.  New Mexico Destination - Chaco Culture National Historical Park.  The route takes you from Albuquerque north through some classic New Mexico geologic rift country, (described by VD more simply as eroded dirt).

We were last here 15 years ago and while the scenery is as spectacular as it always was, the local Native American tribes have followed in the steps of their ancestors and are now raiding the white travelers again.  This time through the use of several new casinos on State Rt 550.

Apache Nugget Casino NM Rt 550

 

What hasn't changed is the last 16 miles from Nagezie to Chaco.  It is still some of the most bone jarring, washboarded dirt road we've encountered, passing only a few modest “homes” with absolutely no hint of connection to the outside world. One has to wonder just what it is that the inhabitants do to subsist. 

After an hour and a half of that fun, we finally arrive at the park boundary where the road is suddenly paved again and leads you down into a wide desert canyon.  You instantly feel like you are in another time and place.  Sort of like those old movies where the explorers pop out the bottom of some old dormant volcano and you sense that things aren’t quite the same.

The was the home to a pre-pueblo culture who built at least 8 elaborate villages along the canyon walls.  Each village was built of hand shaped slabs or blocks of local rock cemented together with mud.  The intricate layouts and incredible craftsmanship of these multi-story buildings is truly impressive.  The first day is spent reconnoitering the area and deciding what to try and cover in the next few days.

While these ancient people definitely knew how to select real estate with an awesome view, they apparently didn't think too highly of bathing, grocery stores or texting, as the necessary elements for those modern day necessities simply do not exist here. 

The neighbors behind us weren't home.

Oddly enough, the drive in didn't deter the numerous campers who set up on a typically slow pre-season Sunday night.  Fortunately we arrived in the early afternoon and got a good site.  Unlike some who endured the road in only to have to drive back out again that night with no place to camp for 50-60 miles.

Mom Wasn't Particularly Pleased

My turn to cook tonight so I narrowed it down to the only thing I actually know how to cook, and we had fried eggs, over easy, no broken yoke.  Surprised even me.  Then off for an evening walk (before dark MM, I swear).  Along the cliff base were a couple of small dwelling ruins, some petroglyphs pecked into the rock (as opposed to pictographs which are painted onto the rock), and a HUGE 5' snake a few feet off the trail.  Non venomous desert racer with burnt orange banding on a light beige background.  Also a lot of 1" long Eleodes Armato beetles (Latin for "stink – armored”).  Not nearly as exciting but much more numerous. 

End of the day.