Rounding The Horn And Heading West

Well, we've gone as far east as you can go without a boat so we are heading back west, albeit by a somewhat circuitous route.  Poking around in various towns, some hiking, (and sacking in late), make it a 2-day trip to the next major stop, Saguenay National Park.  Following the north shore of the Gaspe Penninsula from Forillon west to Riviere du Loup, Then crossing the St Lawrence by ferry, and then back west a bit to Tadoussac, bring view after view of the rugged coast and sleepy towns against the massive St Lawrence Gulf/River.

Trying to make me jealous

The highlight of this leg of the trip was on the ferry ride across the St Lawrence when we spotted a whale about 400 yards away.  It surfaced about 6 times.  No big show, but an added attraction to the ride.  People pay big money for a whale watching cruise.  We paid big money too, but got the Funmobile across the river included in the price.

Good Night From Tadoussac

Death March to Forillon Point Lighthouse

FORILLON NATIONAL PARK

Looks Like A Porpoise?

Today's objective is to recreate the historic DEATH MARCH TO FORILLON LIGHTHOUSE.  For those who've never heard of that event, it took place in this exact same spot some 25 (+/-) years ago on a fiercely hot, sunny day in late July.

Participating were yours truly, Valerie, and two mid-teen aged daughters, (not attending the reenactment),  both of whom would rather have been ANYPLACE but at this God Forsaken ends of the earth.  I would like to say they toughed out without complaint, but that would not be entirely accurate.  "Open Revolt" might be a better description.

Urged on by the promise of whales and the now time honored response of "..just over the next hill and around the next bend...", both made it to the end.  There were NO whales, and it certainly was more than one more hill and bend.  A father's credibility was destroyed in the course of that afternoon.

(No lie - it WAS a b...ch.)

Wonderfully, the original gravel road has now been mostly replaced by a beautiful trail and 25 years of tree growth and high 60's temps have significantly improved the experience.

Stairs To The Beach (Ha Ha)

Porky #2 of 6

This part of the "trail" has NOT changed.

Nor has the view from the top.

I would also add that this piece of trail was added to the American end of the Appalachian Trail and dubbed as the Sentiers International des Appalaches (International Appalachian Trail).  So technically, we have walked to the end of the Appalachian Trail and back.

Since we finished up by mid-afternoon we decided to drive to the north side of the park to check it out.  We were told that moose were often seen on the drive at dusk, so we hiked a beach for a while and then parked at a lighthouse overlook for dinner to kill time.  Unfortunately, since I forgot to turn the headlights off, we also killed the battery.  Oh well, I'll get my money's worth out of the RV Road Repair Service I subscribed to.

The tiny dots in the background are seal heads.
It was a little creepy having them eye-ballin' you.
Sorta like JAWS with flippers.

Dinner VIEW at the "Lights Out" Roadside Restaurant

So it was a little late to see moose on the drive back unless it was as it crashed through the windshield.

Goodnight From Forillon Day 2

Forillon National Park Day One

Got up late because "we" want to do some shopping in the town of Perce which is the tourist gateway to Forillon Park.  All I need is a ball cap 'cause some moose is probably wearing the one I lost on the trail in Cape Breton NP.  It only took me about 5 minutes, but we somehow killed another couple of hours improving the local economy before lunching at a local bistro.

Business End of Porky #1

Arrived late afternoon at Forillon's le' Petit Gaspe campground.  Decided to reconnoiter tomorrow's planned hike and bagged our first of six porcupines in two days.











"Still No moose?"


















VERY cool pebble beach.  Zillions of awesome stones to add to our growing collection in the back of the Funmobile.... But so sorry.  Not permitted to collect rocks from inside the park.














The last hour of the day spent looking for the seal colony that was listed on the ocal campground map.  Val would be happy to tell that story to anyone who has nothing better to listen to.

Good Night From Petit Gaspe

Brad & Val

Traveling The Gaspe' (Suburb of Paris)

Spent several days travelling from Louisbourg  into our next destination of Forillon National Park at the end of the Gaspe Penninsula in Quebec, exploring the small coastal towns along the way.  The original plan was to spend two nights in Kouchibouquack Provincial Park (pronounced just like it's spelled ???) where there were reportedly some beautiful bike trails through the coastal dunes and bogs.

What the report did not say was that Kouchibouquack is Micmac Indian for "mosquitos so big they ate all the moose".  Since there were no moose left, we stayed one night and moved on.  Nothing of great interest on the 25th.

Morning of the 26th we crossed into Quebec.  Cleared Quebec customs with no problems.  (Just kidding.  They aren't allowed to do that ... yet.)  First stop was the Provincial Visitor's "l'information" center, which turned out to be the Quebec Social Security Information Bureau, ("information" being the only word I could pick out on the sign).




A few blocks further down the road we located the universal "?" sign which I have learned to love.  We were also greeted by the wonderfully international sign    -->

Following the south shore of the Gaspe' Penninsula, it also became evident the the Canadian rules about bilingualism don't apply here, so as we role along, my previously mentioned French wench is coaching me on how not to embarass myself (and my Nation) too badly.



The stop for the night was coastal Perce', home of famous "La Roche".

Having shortened our stay at Mosquito Provincial Park, we had no reserved campground site.  However, entering town we stumbled on a nice looking RV park and were able to get a camp site with a pretty decent view.

View From the Bedroom Window

Good Night Form La Roche









PS  -  Although I pretty much continuously poke fun at the French Canadians, I will admit that we've met nothing but the most friendly and helpful people all day.  They all speak English better than I speak my second language ... which is none.  (I will however continue to poke fun.)

One If By Land .. Two If By Sea

On the afternoon of the 22 August we made our way from Fundy, east toward the historic site of Louisbourg, Nova Scotia.  The Cliff Notes version of the fortress town is as follows:

1.   1720's French King Louis XV builds fort to guard the last French harbor in Nova Scotia   and to get rich from the cod fishing.  (????)












2.  Fort terrifically designed by French to defend the town and harbor from invasion by sea.

3.   Not so well designed to defend from invasion by land.  (Plus guards were over worked.)

Pulled em right up this trail.

4.  1745  British land their canon here and roll them around to the above lightly defended (but well guarded) East Gate.

He Who dies With The Biggest ... (toys) ... Wins

5.   British take the Fort and the town from the French and send them all packing to Labrador or Newfoundland (or some other very cold place I can't remember).

At least they left the candelabra.

6.   Food quality and table manners suffer drastically.  Fish and chips and thin gruel.
($38 C plus tip.)















6.   1748  British give the place back to the French.  (How characteristically civil of the Brits).

Sassy French Chicken

7.   Frenchmen (and their sassy chickens) happily move back from Labrador.

Governor Lives Here

Normal folks live here
 (with their sassy chickens.)

8.  1758  Brits get P...'d off at the French about something and invade the Fort and town again.  (Same way as last time. You'd think the French would figure that out.)  Guess where the French went again?

9.   This time the Brits level the place to the ground.  Forts, houses, and all, (and ate the sassy French chickens).

10.  1960's  Fort and town reconstructed as a national historic site by Ron Boviard as result of lobbying by French Canadian interest groups.  Repopulated by French reinactors.

11.  2013 August 23  Invaded again.  This time by two Americans, (and again by land), who benevolently did not send the Frenchmen back to Labrador AGAIN.  (And we did NOT eat the sassy French chicken.)

Photos of the pretty little French (Li'chon) wench I found along the way.

































Goodnight From Louisbourg